Αφήσαμε τα βουνά και κατηφορίσαμε στη Λίμνη της Κερκίνης με σκοπό να γίνουμε για λίγο καπεταναίοι του γλυκού νερού. Μία αποκάλυψη! Βάρκες χωρίς καρίνα, σχεδόν επίπεδες γλιστρούν πάνω στη λίμνη, ενώ δεκάδες πουλιά που περνούν τον χειμώνα τους στον μοναδικό υδροβιότοπο της λίμνης πετούν δίπλα μας. Ο βαρκάρης τους τρατάρει που και που κανένα ψαράκι και αυτά μας ακολουθούν σε απόσταση αναπνοής.
Στο ταβερνάκι του χωριού, στην Ελωδία, απολαμβάνουμε τηγανητό γριβάδι και επαναξιολογούμε οριστικά τη γνώμη μας για τα ψάρια του γλυκού νερού. Ένα ψάρι γευστικό, στα όρια του πικάντικου με χρυσαφένια κρούστα που αναπάντεχα συνδυάζεται μ’ ένα ελαφρύ λάχανο τουρσί, και φυσικά με λίγο τσίπουρο.
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Στην επιστροφή σκαλώσαμε στο χωριό Λιβαδιά, σ’ ένα απλό εξ όψεως ζαχαροπλαστείο, του Αχλάτη, στο οποίο απολαύσαμε ένα αέρινο καζάν ντεπί και ένα ανάλαφρο ρεβανί.
Οι εκπλήξεις συνεχίζονται. Σε κάθε χωριό ανακαλύπτουμε και κάτι καινούριο. Πήγαμε για λουκάνικα και φύγαμε με παλαιωμένα τσίπουρα! Στη γειτονική Ροδόπολη, «Το Χασαπάκι», ένα μικροσκοπικό κρεοπωλείο – delicatessen, στο οποίο εκτός από βουβαλίσιο κρέας και αλλαντικά δική του παραγωγής βρίσκεις όλα τα τοπικά καλούδια. Τσίπουρο παλαιωμένο σε δρύινα βαρέλια, σερραϊκού παραγωγού, φύλλα περέκ από μία ποντιακή οικοτεχνία, βότανα, ζυμαρικά με βουβαλίσιο γάλα, εξαιρετικά μέλια, επιλεγμένες ετικέτες κρασιού από οινοποιούς της Μακεδονίας. Και όλα αυτά σ’ ένα χωριό πεντακοσίων κατοίκων.
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